1860: Fourth of July on Mauna Kea, Hawaii Island

Fourth of July on Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Pacific Commercial Advertiser: August 2, 1860

(Correspondence of the Pacific Commercial Advertiser)

SOUTH KONA, July 10, 1860.

MR. EDITOR: - While millions of people, all over the habitable globe, have manifested their love of Liberty, Freedom and Independence, by celebrations, orations, bonfires, illuminations, feasts, dances, and a thousand other jubilees, a party of us, “took it into our heads and hearts,” to celebrate the glorious Fourth on the top of Mauna Kea, the highest mountain on Hawaii.

We did so. The party consisted of Messrs. Cumings, Travis, hall, Barrett, Sherwood and Mott. Our attendants were, “Jo-ey,” the cook, a Celestial, who, by the by, was the most useful ‘ombre’ of the party-and a quarter of a score of kanakas, who took charge of the pack-animals, supplies, baggage, &c.

We started our animals a day in advance of us, and overtook them near the eastern base of Mount Hualalai. One of our party shot at a wild goose while at the spring near the new lava flow, making the feathers so beautifully, but, unfortunately for our craving stomachs, and, fortunately for the poor goose, the body accompanied the feathers. We crossed the recent flow on horseback. It was attended with no little danger, as deep and yawning cracks were to be met every few feet. We encamped on the “climpers” the first night out, some two miles north of the new flow. Near this spot a company of natives, who were in our rear, lost a fine pack-animal. The poor beats made a misstep, tumbled down the rocks into a deep ravine, baggage, poi and all! The poor thing survived the shock but a few moments. It weas soon disrobed of its hide, and a favorite steak brought into camp, which Jo-ey served up to the full satisfaction of the party.

The next evening found us encamped on the western declivity of Mauna Kea, and early on the following morning, three of our party and myself went in pursuit of wild hogs. Our route was a winding N.E. ascent of the mountain. After going about two miles our dog bayed about twenty hogs. I killed one of the finest of the lot, half of which was as much as two natives could carry at once to our camp. We saw several wild cattle, but too far off for our guns.

From the north flank of the mountain, we had a beautiful view of Waimea and the country far around. The following morning we packed our animals and journeyed around the southern declivity of the mountain; climbing up peaks, going in and out of extinct craters; clambering over the rolling and rough “climpers,” until, after some six hours’ travel, we reached the plain of the south. Here we pitched our tent, and from this point on the following day, a portion of our party succeeded in reaching the summit of the highest peak of Mauna Kea.

On the previous afternoon we went again in pursuit of wild hogs, which we found very plentiful, and killed a boar, said by the party, to be the largest they ever saw. One of his tusks, measured seven inches in length! Soon after, we succeeded in hitting and wounding another, which furiously gave chase to one of the party, who shouting at the top of his voice for help, made tracks at a “2.40” pace, for a neighboring tree, but before reaching his place of refuge the poor “grunter” abandoned the chase and took to his heels in an opposite direction.

We found water very scarce. Deep and dry ravines were formed in the mountain sides, leading to the plain at its base. Boulders or oval shaped rocks, many of them weighing twenty or thirty tons, have been washed down the mountain side, and are scattered in every direction on the plain below.

But four of the party attempted to ascent the mountain; and to make sure of his ascent, one of them selected a fresh jack. Poor jack concluded Mauna Kea was “a hard road to travel” for the purpose only of celebrating “The Fourth,” and hence, he concluded to “Play possom” before we had got three miles up the ascent. In the deepest humility he prostrated himself, as much as to say, “I am your humble servant, but pray don’t attempt to force me to the top of this mountain.” Could the poor ass, like Balsam’s, have spoken, he would, no doubt, have used similar language and for similar reasons. But the beast was mum, and neither by stripes, lashes, kicks, threats or coaxings, could he be made to budge one inch further. Our friend, after addressing a short but animated oration to him for his indisposition, returned with much chagrin to the camp.

The limit of vegetation, we found to be about four miles below the summit. Travelers can ride to the very summit of the highest peak, but the animals are generally left, as were ours, about a mile below. Situated at the base of several high peaks, is what we took to be a lake, said to have been seen by former visitors. It is now ‘dried up.” On reaching the summit of the highest peak, to our astonishment, we found a human skeleton, and the carcase of an ox! Do you, Mr. Editor, or any of the readers of your paper, know anything of the history of the person whose bones now lie bleached on the top of Mauna Kea? Or has any traveler to this mountain been missed? The spot where the skeleton lies is 14,000 feet above the level of the ocean.

It was with great difficulty, we could breathe at this height. Our voices seemed to have a dull, hollow, unnatural sound, and it required much effort to converse. There seemed to be a heavy outward pressure in the head, attended with giddiness and nausea, not unlike sea-sickness. What was more remarkable, in attempting to give a “national salute,” we were unable to fire a pistol or make a cap explode, even after repeated trials. I left the same caps upon my revolver, and, on reaching the encampment at the base of the mountain, and trying them, every one exploded and discharged the pistol! Here is a question for Punahou students, Why would not the caps explode on the top of the mountain?

No animal or vegetable life, not even a fly, was to be seen, for some distance below the summit. In every direction, except south of the summit of Mauna Loa, the vast ocean expanse loomed up before us. From this point we could count one hundred and thirty extinct craters! The trees and mounds in the valley, dwindled into miniature shrubs and ant-hills. Summer clouds, mingled with streaks of thick fog, hung in patches, here and there, over the plains, far beneath us. The ocean, the multitude of craters, the bright sun and the blue ethereal vault over head, mingled with fog, the miniature plains below us, through which meandered rivers of black lava, and the death scene at our feet, -all presented a picture, truly sublime, awful, and grand!

It was a glorious privilege to stand on this lofty pinnacle on our country’s anniversary. It was worth a voyage around the world, to stand here and to do honor to “The day we celebrate.” As with uncovered heads, we gave our “toasts” to the “Memory of the Father of His Country,” “who was first in peace, first in war, and first in the hearts of his countrymen,” we were not forgetful of our own Sovereign, under whose beneficent sway we were permitted to live.

After taking a brief survey of Nature’s sternest works around us, we hastily made our descent, and reached our camp in safety, at 5 o’clock P.M. The following day we rode to the eastward about ten miles, for the purpose of shooting geese, which are generally abundant there. Here a heavy rain and a thick fog over took us. In the morning, the fog not clearing away, we returned to our original encamping ground, having met with nothing but chagrin in our “wild good chase.” One of our party, on our return, however, fortunately killed a wild bull, which, when served up by Jo-ey –compensated in a measure for our night’s lodging in the rain. On leaving for home, the first night, we slept in a large cave among the climpers, and the second, we encamped on the southwest side of the new lava flow, where we found an abundance of good water. Some of the party crossed the new lava flow on foot, and found several places where the lava is yet molten. A beefsteak might be roasted there in a few minutes. This, however, does not compare with the mass of lava, 500 feet thick, thrown out from the volcano Jorullo, in Mexico, in 1759, which was found smoking, by Humbolt, forty-five years after the eruption.

On riding along the plateau between Mauna Loa and Hualalai, we noticed a large spider, some thirty feet in the air, traveling in an ascending easterly direction. We could see his web or cable glisten in the sun for several feet, both in front and behind him. Here is another puzzle for Punahou students. What were the propelling powers of this spider, there being no wind at the time; and how was his “cable” stretched so high, there being no trees or other high objects on which to suspend it, within several miles? We arrived safely at Kona, after an absence of ten days, with appetites greatly improved, and physical powers sensibly strengthened.

ONE OF THE PARTY.